| Good news for bra-makers. Few pattern
cutting books before The
Bra-makers manual make any reference whatsoever to making patterns for
bras and those that do so rarely go into the subject in sufficient
depth to address the needs of women whose shape and size falls outside
size charts of 'average' measurements. At last, however, in December 2005, this new book was published, a book so comprehensive, so well written and illustrated that it deserves a place on the bookshelves of anyone who sews, whether or not they make bras. Why should this be so? Because the fit, support and comfort of the bra affects how we look and how we feel and enables whatever else we are wearing to look good. Understanding how to make a pattern that fits and supports the bust area correctly also enables us to fit outer garments from a new perspective. A bra is a 'foundation garment' and a good foundation is the basis of most successful projects. In The Bra-makers manual, Beverly Johnson has provided us with a unique textbook that deals with every aspect of bra-making, from measuring, through making a pattern, to fitting and sewing, making it possible for every woman to possess beautiful and well-fitting bras. Whatever your size, shape, or special need, you'll find the solution in this manual. Every type of bra is discussed, also bra components such as frame, band, bridge, connector and many other terms - all are explained and illustrated, showing how the various pieces of the bra relate to each other to provide support, fit and comfort. This lengthy (235 page) coil-bound volume lives up to its sub-title: 'a professional approach to bra design, draft, fit and construction' and reduces a complex subject to relative simplicity through step-by-step diagrams and clear instructions. Beverly points out that most women are unhappy with the fit of their bras - in fact are wearing the wrong size bra. She discusses the problems and provides the answers in ten separate chapters, each covering particular aspects, making it an easy book to refer to and to learn from. Most women know their bra size and cup size as provided by Ready-to-wear manufacturers yet, even with expert fitters, rarely find the perfect bra. Beverly shows us how to calculate the two most important aspects of bra-making - correct bra band size and correct cup size. She points out how an ill-fitting bra can cause backache and other health problems and how correct support helps posture and confidence. Six different ways of obtaining a pattern are shown in great detail, including cloning a favourite bra and drafting a pattern from a block and grading it to other sizes. Good fit. Perfect fit. How we all long to achieve this in everyday dressmaking. Whether it is for ourselves or for others, in learning how to measure, draft and sew a well-fitting bra, a greater understanding of fit generally helps us answer problems encountered in the fitting of other garments. In The Bra-makers manual, Beverley Johnson dispels the mystique surrounding bra construction and simplifies it, making it an easier task for every woman who wants to make her own bras or bras for other women - bras that fit, that support, that are comfortable - and in fabrics, colours and styles of our own choosing. Dawn Cloake at FashionAcademy.co.uk, September, 2006 -Find out more about Beverly Johnson, the book, the Bra-makers Supply and bra-making classes from Beverly's web-page: http://www.bramakers.com |